MY
LOVE
FOR KNICKER
BOCKERS
On this page, you will find a brief history of the Knickerbocker pants (its relation to the Netherlands, New York, and Japan). I will finish this page by explaining why I am so drawn by them.
TERMS
Knickerbockers or knickers: A style of pants the first Dutch settlers of New Amsterdam (New York in 1600) wore. A loose-fitting trouser gathered at the knee or calf worn for sport (baseball, bicycling, golf, horseback riding, hunting) and as regular menswear (and later on womens wear).
Knickerbockers or Knicks: a native or resident of the city or state of New York
Knickerbockers: a term that author Washington Irving introduced in New York when he wrote the satiric “A History of New York from the Beginning of the World to the End of the Dutch Dynasty” under the pseudonym Diedrich Knickerbocker. Later known as Knickerbocker's History of New York, Irving's book introduced the word "knickerbocker" to signify a New Yorker who could trace his or her ancestry to the original Dutch settlers.
Nikka-pokka: Knickerbockers, pronounced in Japanese, are loose work trousers worn by construction workers. Nikka-pokka were introduced to Japan in the early 20th century and became widely used as military uniforms during wartime and as mountain climbing and golf wear after the war. Later, because they had tight hems and were easy to move in, they became established as workwear for civil engineering and construction work. The baggy silhouette of knickerbockers resembles the baggy silhouette of the pompoms worn by delinquent students or the uniforms worn by motorcycle gangs, so many people have a negative impression of them. Sometimes workers are banned from wearing the knickerbocker pants, especially at large construction companies.
Knickerbocker (own interpretation): An object that I feel really excited about and feel some kind of sympathy towards. A garment that has no ultimate one origin, use and background and has been worn by many who are in constant movement and don’t necessarily belong. Ultimately for me the clothing piece is a multicultural garment and symbol of where comfort, physically and mentally (sometimes I wear it to places where I do not feel comfortable wearing a skirt) and freedom of movement meet.
SELFMADE COTTON KNICKERBOCKER PANTS
SELFMADE COTTON VARIATION ON KNICKERBOCKER PANTS
Knickerbocker pants hold a special place in my heart for three compelling reasons:
1. Their unconventional design defies modern fashion standards of practicality and commercial appeal.
2. I find immense joy in meticulously crafting each pair by hand.
3. Most importantly, their rich and fascinating historical journey captivates me.
Historical Origins and Evolution
These distinctive pants trace their roots to the Dutch settlers of New Amsterdam (later New York) in the 1600s. Characterized by their loose fit and gathering at the knee or calf, knickerbockers were originally versatile garments worn for various activities including sports like baseball, cycling, golf, horseback riding, hunting, and mountain climbing. Initially a men's fashion, they later became popular among women as well.
The pants originated in the Netherlands, initially favoured by Dutch seamen and settlers. The term "Knickerbocker" gained cultural significance through Washington Irving's 1809 satirical work, "A History of New York," written under the pseudonym Diedrich Knickerbocker. Irving's writing popularized the term to describe New York residents.
Cultural Spread and Transformation
In the United States, knickerbockers evolved from sporting attire to everyday wear. They became particularly significant for women in the cycling community, who used them as a form of resistance against restrictive clothing norms. These women often faced social criticism and abuse for challenging traditional dress expectations.
The pants' journey to Japan is equally intriguing. Contrary to my previous assumption that they were a Japanese invention, they were actually introduced by the American golf industry in the early 20th century. Unfortunately, military uniforms further popularized their use. During Japan's post-war economic growth, their practical design made them ideal for civil engineering and construction work, valued for ease of movement and functionality.
An iconic image comes to mind of a Japanese construction worker wearing knickerbockers while working on the Tokyo Tower, symbolizing the garment's adaptability.
Contemporary Perception and Significance
Today, knickerbockers are primarily associated with construction workers, though they carry a somewhat negative connotation. They're often linked to delinquent youth culture and motorcycle gang attire, with some large construction companies even prohibiting their use.
Personal Connection and Philosophical Reflection
For me, knickerbockers represent more than just clothing. They embody a multicultural narrative of movement, comfort, and freedom. They are a garment without a singular origin, worn by people in constant transition, existing between boundaries and defying conventional categorization.
These pants mirror my artistic and personal philosophy—embracing multiple disciplines, fluid identities, and perpetual movement. Their ability to adapt across different cultural and historical contexts, challenging societal norms like gendered clothing restrictions, makes them a powerful symbol of flexibility and resistance.
The journey of knickerbocker pants through various cultures and uses is, to me, a beautiful metaphor for cultural exchange and transformation. They represent not just a piece of clothing, but a dynamic narrative of human adaptability and freedom.
